New from Lyman Reloading: Brass Smith Victory Press

1. It doesn’t look as heavily built as the Rock Chucker, and it’s more expensive than the Partner, and the shell holders for the RCBS presses handle more cartridges than the Lyman.

   To me, the best/only reason to invest in the Lyman line of tooling is when you own the turret press. For single-stage presses, it’s very difficult to beat the RCBS line.

   In reloading books, Lyman is a preferred book.

   • With reloading data now available on the web sites of powder and bullet manufacturers, I’m wondering if reloading manuals might soon go the way of the telephone directory.

     That said, I learned a lot from reading my reloading manuals (Lyman and Speer), aside from the recipes. Lots of dos and don’ts, not to mention historical information on the development of each cartridge.

     • I think you’re right; I can find any load data I need with a quick search.

     • Its not just about load data. When I started reloading, having a couple of books on hand was immensely useful. Most have 100 pages or so on the process of reloading in the front of the book before the recipes.

2. Priming on a single stage is pointless when there are hand and bench priming tools that work better and faster.

   If one is going to buy a single stage press, then it’s because they want the most accurate, repeatable ammo possible. The Lee Aluminum O frame press is fairly stong and will cost $100 less than this and for really good presses, the MEC Marksman and Forster Co-Ax will make better ammunition than this for close to the same price.

   Not great, then again I’ve yet to see a Lyman press that interests me.

   • I prime on a Lee Classic Turret with the Lee Safety Prime. Upstroke flares the case mouth, downstroke primes the case. I tried the hand primer thing but now know that I have a bad Hornady hand primer. I’ve since used a friends RCBS and was impressed, but there’s that old dog new trick thing. No plans to change since my process is second nature at this point.

     • That’s interesting. I use a Lee Classic Cast turret for my low volume calibers (.357 mag, .44 mag, etc) because outside of dies, it only costs about $10 for each new caliber. This is a lot less than the $180 per caliber it takes to do it right with my Dillon 650.

       But here’s the thing. I’ve never been able to get the priming to work right. Its infuriating. I’d love to know your secret.

       • That’s odd, because the Classic Turret is probably the second best way to prime, first being the RCBS table top priming tool. It’s easy to do priming only on the Lee Turret by shortening the lever arm, which saves effort and promotes feel. Plus, it’s easy to catch the rare screw up on the primer arm before the primer goes who knows where.

         Set the primer dispenser to push down on the primer lever maybe about half an inch before dispensing the primer. That way both the dispenser and primer arm are flush, and everything will click like clockwork.

3. So, not a Lyman, but on the subject of shellholder trivia, some folks might find this interesting. I have one of these 1933 940 Pacific presses (hand me down from my grandfather) as my single stage:

   https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Pacific-Reloading-Press-Patent-1933940-1933/162810630873

   The ram *is* the shellholder, so to change calibers, you needed to swap out the whole ram. Eventually they came out with a generic ram with the shellholder machined into the end with a set screw.

   I’ve since upgraded to a CH4D #444 (talk about another niche press!) for most things but I cranked out a bunch of ammo on that old Pacific after he taught me to reload on it.

   • Those Pacifics are a perfect example of what Lyman was talking about re: quality built heavy duty presses being handed down through generations. There’s a place for a good rock solid single stage on every bench. It’s not always about speed, sometimes it’s just being able to be out in the garage with no one pestering you.

     • > It’s not always about speed, sometimes it’s just being able to be out in the garage with no one pestering you.

       This, exactly. With two kids, reloading is my “quiet time.” I tell everyone that I’m crazy for reloading 9mm, because I’m not saving money, but the process is enjoyable.

       But, on the flipside, a friend paid for his dies with the savings after we loaded up three boxes of .257 Roberts.

       • You’re not crazy for reloading 9mm. The cases are plentiful and the rest of the components cost about 16 cents. That’s $8.00 per box. Maybe not a great return on your time if you’re using a single stage press but with a progressive press it definitely makes sense. I just loaded 1,000 rounds, it’s a way to pass the time during the winter so you can enjoy shooting all summer.

         You’ll save even more money reloading .38 Special or .357 Magnum.

       • Curtis in IL: That’s about my calculated price, too, and you definitely save money on a component vs. finished product for 9mm. You probably break even if you compare it to the steel cased stuff. Also, that’s all FMJ, whereas I’m loading cast or coated cast for steel targets. Which you’re not going to find at Walmart!

         I neglected to complete my thought of, “… when I take my time into account.” So, if someone doesn’t enjoy reloading, or would rather be doing something else, it’s probably a net loss. It’s relaxing for me, so it’s a net gain even if I lost money!

         Plus, the Scot in me can’t leave all those 9mm cases to be lonely in the brass bucket at the range.

4. A single stage press can be useful, I have a Lee press that cost me $25 that I use to pop out spent primers before dropping the cases in the cleaner. Simple and fuctional and the primer pockets get cleaned at the same time as the rest of the case.

   • Yup. Everyone needs a Lee Single with a Universal de-capper. Just about every piece of my brass sees it before the tumbler and Dillon. I also have a hand de-primer one for sitting in front of the TV.

5. I use a hand primer. In my recliner. In front of the TV. Not too hard to prime 1,000 cases in a couple hours that way.

   • You can even use a Lyman 310 hand tool to do reloading. I have a buddy who used to load about 200 rounds of ’06 an hour with a 310 tool.

6. During the ” fu_k you” packing of my x, I lost my reloader. Im looking to buy a good cheap single stage, there’s so many I’m a bit confused.

   • “Good cheap single stage…”
     This is something that will last a lifetime and be passed down to your kids (if your next ex-wife doesn’t take it). Buy a good one and don’t fret about the price too much. The cost will pale in comparison to what you will spend on supplies, not to mention a good scale, calipers, case trimmers and dies.

     They’re very simple machines. The RCBS Rock Chucker that DG mentioned above is rock solid, but any of the major brands (Hornady, Lee, Lyman, MEC) will work just fine.

   • I’m a huge fan of the Lee Classic Cast Turret.

     I use it with the auto index rod installed to load low volume pistol calibers.

     I also use it without the index to load precision rifle ammo. I run it like a single stage, except when its time to change dies, all I need to do is turn the turret. Some may say that I”m stupid to load this kind of ammo with this press, but its very accurate and my muzzle velocity standard deviation is typically 6 fps or less with .308.

     I use a redding national match die set.

     I also keep another tool head with a universal decapper and a full length resizing die for .223 and .308. So by putting that tool head on, I can prep brass by decapping, then tumble, then resize, then tumble again to remove the lube.

     I’m pretty anal about rifle ammo and this press works as well as any single stage for that. I like to think that I manufacture pistol ammo (dillon 650) and I “craft” rifle ammo.

   • If you want the best single stage I think the Forster Co-ax is the way to go. The die swapping alone will make it worth the extra cost.

7. Got the Lee 100th anniversary kit for about $150, came with O-frame loader press, large and small primer feed, powder measure, balance beam scale, books, reamer, pocket tool and some case lube.

   Ive loaded THOUSANDS of rounds on that lil guy.

   Those who say priming on the single stage is pointless never tried it or aren’t doing it right.

   This Lyman press looks and screams direct copy of the Lee.

   If it was my money, I’d buy another Lee in a heart beat. The powder drop isn’t the slickest thing to use, but its perfectly accurate, the balance scale has been flawless.
   I’m at the point now I only balance check loads if I think there’s a discrepancy or I’ve stepped away from the bench for a bit.

   So, not new, and I wouldn’t brag about it Lyman.

   • That’s the same kit I bought a couple years ago. I don’t do a lot or reloading but in that time it’s paid for itself a couple times just on .38/.357 and .45.

     I’ve got a 9mm set of dies but don’t reload it other than the first hundred or so rounds. The time to make it vs shoot it means I usually buy my 9 ammo but I’ve only bought maybe 3 boxes of .38 and .357 range ammo to get new brass as my other wears out.

8. I’ve been reloading sense I was in college in 1974 and load everything I shoot with the exception of .22LR. It’s relaxing and my loads can be tailored to my firearms. My 300WM load out shoots federal premium for accuracy. I do a great deal of NRA instruction and provide ammunition for my students and my course includes about 8 hours of range time. Lots of .38Spl and 9mm go down range. It may not be economical for some rounds. 9mm is so cheap these days that I don’t reload it anymore, but I save a lot on other pistol rounds and more then 50% on rifle loads. This assumes your time and equipment investment is not counted. The tools last a life time, but your time may be too valuable. For me it’s very relaxing.

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